5 entries in

August 2009

Don’t use this map in Tokyo

Believe me, I was not wearing my Japanophile’s hat when I entered the cinema. I did a conscious effort to look at the screen in the same way I thought my friends were going to look at it. I didn’t nudge them and whispered the toponyms that, who knows why, are lacking in the story. I tried to see pachinko, love hotels and women-only carriages as if it were the first time. A story in Tokyo… What an exotic country, wonder what it’ll be like. So far away, isn’t it? Must be an amazing culture. Well, let’s see.

Still, Isabel Coixet’s Map of the sounds of Tokyo fails to tell an engaging story; it is rather boring. If her intention was to leave spectators ‘craving for sex and sushi (sex and ramen, at any rate), it didn’t work for me.

As UnGatoNipón pointed out, dialogues are poor in general, and sometimes plainly silly. Long still shot. Silence. ‘Do you want a strawberry mochi?’ ‘No.’ Silence. ‘I can go and buy some, it’s no problem.’ ‘No.’ Long silence. If that is supposed to capture some profound, centuries-old Japanese introspective philosophy, I don’t get it.

And what with the dubbing. If it is usually just criminal the way most foreign films are butched and re-interpreted here in Spain (Spain hasn’t had a head of government who was fluent in any other language but Spanish for decades; certainly not during the current democratic period) the case with Map of the sounds of Tokyo, being it a Spanish film, is especially sad. The character of David is a Spaniard who has been living in Tokyo for two years and whose Japanese is, as he admits, not good. He’s supposed to speak in English with the Japanese characters. All that is dubbed into Spanish in the version that is being shown in Spanish cinemas, but from time to time there are words or common expressions that are spoken in Japanese.

Not only that, but it seems that the producers didn’t bother editing the subtitles appropriately: when David tells his colleague that Midori’s father called him baka (stupid) once, Sergi López is pronouncing the word in Spanish, and at the same time we read it in a subtitle in Spanish, which is quite confusing. Although I suspect that is a timing issue, and that subtitle is supposed to appear when the Japanese character repeats the word in Japanese.

What is even worse is that, as anyone who ever has had to move around Japan using English knows, communication in English with the Japanese is, more often than not, quite difficult. If, as it is claimed, Tokyo is a necessary protagonist in the story, i.e. if the same tale wouldn’t be conceivable in Lisbon or in Jakarta, you can’t avoid the issue of communication altogether.

The writer makes an attempt at disentangling clichés about Japan and the Japanese, but it seems to me that she only skims the surface, sometimes rather explicitly. David tells Ryu that in essence the Japanese are no different from his own people; and at the beginning, Midori’s father expresses his disgust about the flamboyant evening that has to be arranged to please his foreign business partners. But Coixet falls short of tackling those issues, and her Tokyoites appear as silent, shy, lonely ghosts with an unfathomable interest for the weirdest activities.

The worst thing about the movie is that it’s very slow, and so quiet. To me, Tokyo is a city of words, both written and spoken. It is a loud city. It is what Paul Waley calls ‘Tokyo as textual city’. I think that is why this representation of Tokyo doesn’t look realistic at all.

The scene when Bill Murray sings More than this at the karaoke… Sorry — I mean, the scene when Sergi López sings Enjoy the silence at the karaoke doesn’t convey any melancholy, and for me it was ridiculous.

To me, the first scene in the love hotel was everything but exciting. Maybe the others were a bit more evocative. Sex scenes were brave and sincere, that I must admit.

From the soundtrack, only One dove by Antony & the Johnsons makes the cut for me.

Bonus: if you really want a tender, funny, surprising film that leaves you craving for ramen and sex, go and watch Tampopo (1985). Here, an appetizer for the ramen part of it; here, something about the sex… and also food.

30 Aug 2009 8 comments so farFilms, Japan


Howto: repair Grub’s menu on a Linux installation that wouldn’t boot

This is a simple recipe that will be obvious for many users of Un*x systems, but which proved useful to me when I needed to fix Grub on my laptop. I’m sharing it here for future personal reference, and in case anyone out there knows even less than I do about booting Linux and about Grub.

This recipe assumes that there is a /boot/ partition containing valid Linux kernels. In other words, it just creates a missing menu.lst file for Grub — it does not deal with other more complicated, lower-level boot issues.

Last time I installed Ubuntu, I somehow messed with the boot loader settings. I’m running Ubuntu on a MacBook Pro with an Intel processor; but I also have Mac OS installed, and I use rEFIt to handle both OS’s. Whatever option Ubuntu ticks by default regarding Grub, I thought it wasn’t the right one for my setup. It turned out that either Ubuntu didn’t know how to install Grub correctly for my partition layout, or I screwed it myself. Anyway.

The system was installed successfully, but once the installation finished, Linux wouldn’t boot. rEFIt detected the new OS correctly, but when it was selected, Grub fell back to its own limited command line.

Now, if I knew more about Grub, I’d be able to find an image of the Linux kernel and boot the system with it, using Grub commands. Then I would edit the file /boot/grub/menu.lst myself.

What I did, instead, was the following:

  1. Run Linux from a live CD distro. You can boot using the same CD you used to install Ubuntu (but any live distro which includes Grub in its base system will do).
  2. Fire up a terminal.
  3. Temporarily rename the /boot/ directory:
    $ sudo mv /boot/ /boot.DISABLED
  4. Create a symbolic link to the partition on your hard drive that contains the Linux kernels, and call it /boot/ (if your live system did not mount that partition automatically, find the right device and mount it first under /media/, or mount it directly onto /boot/):
    $ sudo ln -s /boot /media/sda3/    # Your device might not be this one
  5. If there is already a /boot/grub/ directory, disable it:
    $ sudo mv /boot/grub/ /boot/grub.DISABLED
  6. Run update-grub (if it returns an error, you might need to create the directory /boot/grub/ yourself first):
    $ sudo update-grub
  7. Restore the original live /boot/:
    $ sudo unlink /boot/
    $ sudo mv /boot.DISABLED /boot
  8. Reboot the system and extract the live CD; this time Grub should show the menu of available kernels and load the one that you choose.

N.B. Although update-grub’s man page asks you to run the command first, then set some options in menu.lst, and finally run the command again, update-grub looks idempotent to me (anyone knows what I’m missing?).

28 Aug 2009 No comments yetComputers, Linux


Anyone out there knows how to fix this Wordpress RSS feed so that the <description> XML contains the whole entry, including formatting and links?? :( I’m digging up the Wordpress PHP template anyway — just asking in case anyone had the same issue and saves me the time…

This content

is what I want you

to see in your RSS client.

23 Aug 2009 One comment so farComputers, Meta


Definitive howto: Flex Builder 3 in Ubuntu Linux 9.04

Two weeks ago I had to reinstall Ubuntu. Yesterday I spent some time setting up Flex Builder in my new Linux installation. This time I faced even more difficulties than the last time, months ago. Definitely, Adobe is not paying much attention to its Linux developers — looking through Adobe.com and Adobe Labs, stuff regarding Flex development in Linux stays pretty much as (bad as) it was one year ago or so.

I finally managed to get the Flex 3 IDE and version 3.0.0 of the AIR SDK to run with Eclipse 3.3.2, and to launch both the AIR runtime and the Flash plug-in for Firefox from within Eclipse as needed (run and debug modes).

The process is no apt-get install, and is not well documented. At the end I combined instructions and tips from Adobe Labs, one or two comments from forums and the workaround for a bug filed in Jira. This recipe summarises the process in detail and, following it step by step, in a few minutes you will be running Flex Builder 3 in Ubuntu 9.04 Jaunty Jackalope. This recipe might be applicable to other versions of Ubuntu, and even to other Debian-based distros.

There are six main steps:

  1. Install a JRE
  2. Install the Eclipse SDK
  3. Install the FB3 plug-in for Eclipse
  4. Back up one SWC library
  5. Upgrade the AIR SDK
  6. Repair the offending SWC library from the backup

A few notes before going into details. First of all, bear in mind that the Linux version of FB3 is an unsupported alpha, and that some key features are (still) missing in it. The most important one is the design view, but also the states view, the profiler and four other features. If these are important limitations for you, you might need to consider virtualisation instead (or a different base OS altogether).

Second, there is no stand-alone FB3 for Linux. Flex developers running Windows or Mac OS are used to installing either the FB3 plug-in on top of an existing Eclipse installation or the FB3 stand-alone bundle provided by Adobe. In Linux, on the other hand, there is no option but to install the Eclipse SDK first, and then the FB3 plug-in on top of it.

Third, Java is a dependency: the FB3 plug-in needs Eclipse, and Eclipse needs a JRE.

Fourth, if you plan to build AIR applications for the desktop (as opposed to Flash applications for the web) you might need to install the AIR runtime separately, in addition to the steps listed here.

Finally, here I use Bash commands to illustrate these steps in detail and without ambiguity; but most of these steps, if not all of them, you can accomplish using your file manager and visual tools of choice instead.

  1. Install a JRE
    $ sudo apt-get install sun-java6-jre

    This will also install sun-java6-bin.
    You can now check that Java has been installed successfully, the usual way:

    $ java -version
  2. Install the Eclipse SDK
    From all the bundles that Eclipse.org provides, pick and download a minimal Eclipse SDK (you won’t need all those fancy plug-ins, and they can be added after the installation anyway).
    Whatever the bundle, it needs to be version 3.3.x, codename Europa.
    The IDE “for Java developers” [Europa] is the best option:

    $ wget "http://www.eclipse.org/downloads/download.php?file=/technology/epp/downloads/release/europa/winter/eclipse-java-europa-winter-linux-gtk.tar.gz"

    Extract the files from the archive and then move the base eclipse/ directory to, for example, /usr/local/:

    $ tar -xzf eclipse-java-europa-winter-linux-gtk.tar.gz
    $ sudo mv eclipse /usr/local/

    Create a permanent workspace for Eclipse:

    $ mkdir ~/eclipse-workspace/

    Launch Eclipse:

    $ /usr/local/eclipse/eclipse &
  3. During the first initialisation it will prompt for a workspace. Browse to the directory that you just created (~/eclipse-workspace/).
    Check that Eclipse works (you can write and run a helloworld in Java).
    Close Eclipse.

  4. Install the FB3 plug-in for Eclipse
    Download Flex Builder for Linux and give yourself permission to run the file:

    $ wget "http://download.macromedia.com/pub/labs/flex/flexbuilder_linux/flexbuilder_linux_install_a4_081408.bin"
    $ chmod u+x flexbuilder_linux_install_a4_081408.bin

    Create a new directory for FB3 and make it your own:

    $ sudo mkdir /usr/local/flex-builder/
    $ sudo chown $USER:$USER /usr/local/flex-builder/

    Run the installer:

    $ ./flexbuilder_linux_install_a4_081408.bin

    Accept the license.
    When asked where to install Flex Builder, browse to the directory you just created (/usr/local/flex-builder/).
    When asked where Eclipse is currently installed, browse to the directory where you copied Eclipse (/usr/local/eclipse/).
    If you plan to develop for the Flash Player, tick the option to install the debug version of Flash Player 9 for Firefox (but you might be able to download it separately anyway).
    The “pre-installation summary” should look similar to this:

    Once the installation finishes you can launch FB3:

    $ /usr/local/flex-builder/Adobe_Flex_builder.sh &

    Flash projects will run fine …but most likely AIR projects won’t work. When you try to build and launch an AIR app, you will see this error message in Eclipse:

  5. Back up one SWC library
    $ cp /usr/local/flex-builder/sdks/3.0.0/frameworks/libs/air/airglobal.swc ~
  6. Upgrade the AIR SDK
    Download the AIR SDK for Linux to a temporary directory and uncompress it:

    $ mkdir ~/tmp-air/
    $ cd ~/tmp-air/
    $ wget "http://airdownload.adobe.com/air/lin/download/latest/air_1.5_sdk.tbz2"
    $ tar -xjf air_1.5_sdk.tbz2
    $ rm air_1.5_sdk.tbz2

    Delete the current SDK 3.0.0 runtime/ directory from the FB3 installation directory:

    $ rm -rf /usr/local/flex-builder/sdks/3.0.0/runtimes/

    Overwrite the SDK 3.0.0 with the version you downloaded (it will overwrite some files — that’s fine):

    $ cp -a ~/tmp-air/* /usr/local/flex-builder/sdks/3.0.0/

    Replace these two files:

    $ cd /usr/local/flex-builder/sdks/3.0.0/bin/
    $ rm adl_lin adt_lin
    $ mv adl adl_lin
    $ mv adt adt_lin

    Create this new symbolic link:

    $ cd /usr/local/flex-builder/sdks/3.0.0/runtimes/air/
    $ ln -s linux/ Linux

    Now it will almost work. When you run FB3 and try to run an AIR app, you will get this error:

  7. Repair the offending SWC library from the backup
    $ cp ~/airglobal.swc /usr/local/flex-builder/sdks/3.0.0/frameworks/libs/air/

    This will fix the previous error. Try to build Flash and AIR apps again in FB3; everything should work fine.

20 Aug 2009 11 comments so farAdobe Flex, Computers, Images, Work


Recomendaciones informales de viaje en Tokio

Una amiga se acaba de ir a Tokio por cuatro o cinco días, como parte de un viaje mayor por Asia. Me ha pedido algunas recomendaciones de lugares para visitar en Tokio y alrededores.

Empecé a escribirle un emilio, pero a medio camino se me ocurrió que esas recomendaciones podrían ser útiles para alguien más. Así que he transformado el mensaje en esta entrada.

Mis recomendaciones son absolutamente subjetivas, y a menudo no casan con lo que pueda decir la Lonely Planet, y ni siquiera con lo que pueda decir una guía de viajes de verdad. En general, están sesgadas hacia lo que a mí me interesa más: grandes ciudades (Tokio); urbanismo y arquitectura, especialmente contemporáneos; cultura popular; tecnología; rarezas; consumismo, dinero y excesos; localizaciones de películas o rincones con cierto simbolismo…

Ahí va una lista muy personal (no exhaustiva ni ordenada, pero con algo de chicha) de cosas a hacer y sitios a visitar, para cuatro o cinco días en Tokio:

  • En Tokio
    • El Miraikan. El museo de ciencia y tecnología en Odaiba, una isla artificial en la Bahía de Tokio. En el Miraikan hay maquetas y demostraciones de robots (el ASIMO de Honda está allí jugueteando con los visitantes), de trenes bala, etc. A la isla se va en una suerte de monoraíl atravesando el Rainbow Bridge (el Yurikamome; se coge en las estaciones de Shimbashi o Shiodome). Para mí, aunque solo fuese por ese viajecito y por las vistas desde lo alto de las vías elevadas (foto a la derecha) ya merece la pena visitar la isla. La isla es sobre todo un barrio de ocio, con centros comerciales, recreativos, más museos, restaurantes, paseos y parques. También hay en Odaiba algunos edificios famosetes, como el de Fuji TV y el Big Sight. Más sobre Odaiba y cosas para hacer allí.
    • Los museos en el parque Ueno. Ueno Park (en la parte norte/noreste de la ciudad) mola para pasear. Dentro del parque, o cerca, hay varios museos. Los dos más recomendados son el Tokyo National Museum (historia del país a través de objetos, obras de arte, etc.) y el National Museum of Nature and Science.
    • La lonja de Tsukiji. El mercado de comestibles más grande del mundo (dicen por ahí). Si vas muy temprano (yo ese día estaba en la calle a las 6:02) se ve toda la actividad mañanera, frenesí de carretillas, pescaditos gigantes, etc. y mola. ¡Ojo! Una amiga me ha comentado que al parecer se hartaron de tener turistas paseando por entre las montañas de bloques de hielo y dándole con el dedito en las escamas a los peces raros, y ya han prohibido el paso a los curiosos :¬(
    • El parque Hamarikyuu Teien. Está al ladito mismo de Tsukiji (en la zona de Shiodome). Creo recordar que hay que pagar un poco por entrar, pero es un ejemplo chulo de jardín tradicional japonés. Además, no es muy grande y está flanqueado por las torres de oficinas de Shiodome por la parte norte, lo que hace un contraste muy especial entre lo natural-viejo y lo artificial-nuevo (como se ve en la imagen de la derecha).
    • El Palacio Imperial. Está claro. A mí me decepcionó un poco. Pero me encontré con un viejo amigo ese día y lo visitamos más pendientes de nuestra conversación que de lo que estábamos viendo, así que puede que fuese por eso. Está en el centro de la ciudad, cerca de la estación de tren «Tokio» (el palacio, no mi viejo amigo).
    • Shibuya. El barrio, y el intercambiador de transportes homónimo. Aquí está el famoso cruce de Lost in Translation. Es un poco en plan Piccadilly Circus (o Times Square, supongo). Un hervidero; de noche es especialmente impactante. Por la zona hay pachinko, karaoke, love hotels, tiendas para turistas… Bueno, de eso hay un poco en todas partes.
    • Miradores en la ciudad. Tres señalados. El edificio principal del Gobierno Metropolitano de la ciudad (o sea, la sede del ayuntamiento); un rascacielos neo-gótico en Shinjuku al que se puede subir sin pagar para hacer fotos como la de la derecha. El segundo es el Caretta Shiodome; el mejor observatorio de la zona de Shiodome. Puedes subir gratis a la última planta y contemplar la lonja de Tsukiji y el parque Hamarikyuu Teien inmediatamente a tus pies, y más adelante, toda la bahía. Y finalmente, la Mori Tower; el monumento a la megalomanía del magnate Minoru Mori en Roppongi Hills. Aparte de visitar el mirador, pagando un poco más se puede acceder también al museo de arte y arquitectura que ocupa las últimas plantas. La Tokyo Tower se suele incluir en esta lista de techos de la ciudad, pero yo no he estado, porque creo que no merece mucho la pena.
    • Shinjuku. Aparte de rascacielos (como el del Gobierno Metropolitano) al lado contrario del inmenso intercambiador de transportes hay mucha actividad nocturna y galerías comerciales. Ahí está también Kabukichou, un barrio nocturno de callecillas estrechas y prostíbulos muy pintoresco.
    • Akihabara, el «barrio eléctrico». Para ver frikis, nerds, otakus, etc. (o si eres uno de ellos). Está lleno de tiendas de electrónica de consumo, ocio, cafés para leer manga, pornografía (legal y de la otra), gente joven… Si quieres comprar algún cacharro, será de los mejores sitios para hacerlo (¡asegúrate de que te descuentan el IVA enseñando tu pasaporte y el visado que te han grapado en él!).
    • Harajuku. Ahí está Omotesandou, una calle pija con marcas europeas, tiendas de joyas y de diamantes (como la de la foto), etc. Está bien verlo. Al otro lado de la estación de Harajuku está el parque Yoyogi, un parque donde se juntan los jovenzuelos disfrazados de las cosas más extravagantes. Tribus urbanas, góticos, lolitas, etc. Y en ese mismo parque está el Meiji Jinguu, un templo dedicado al Emperador Meiji, figura histórica imprescindible del Japón moderno.
    • Asakusa. Al noreste de la ciudad. Ahí están el Kaminarimon y el Sensou-ji: una puerta y un templo sintoístas, respectivamente. Son de los más famosetes y chulos de ver en la ciudad.
    • El barrio de Ginza (y de nuevo Omotesandou. Para compras (más bien caras).
  • Cerca de Tokio
    • Yokohama. Según el criterio que se escoja, puede ser la ciudad más populosa de Japón (lo que solemos llamar «Tokio» es en rigor una aglomeración de ciudades, como Londres). Yokohama está a menos de una hora de Tokio en tren. Allí se va principalmente a comprar (buenas calles comerciales), a pasear por el paseo marítimo, a comer… Hay un barrio moderno (el Minato Mirai) que se ha llenado de rascacielos y cosas extravagantes. Si vas, no dejes de visitar la Landmark Tower (la torre a la izquierda en la foto); se trata del edificio más alto del país (296 m). Se puede subir a la última planta (en el segundo ascensor más veloz del mundo mundial) y contemplar Yokohama y buena parte de los alrededores desde ahí arriba. Otro atractivo arquitectónico es el intercambiador marítimo del español Alejandro Zaera-Polo.
    • Nikko. Más lejos que Yokohama, pero también asequible para ir y venir en el día. Es un conjunto enorme de templos entre bosques; la combinación es desbordante. Este puente sobre el río que se ve en la foto es una imagen muy reproducida. Aparte de eso, hay un lago (Chuuzenji-ko) y una cascada (Kegon no Taki o Kegon Falls) muy cerca.
    • Kamakura. Otra buena excursión de un día desde Tokio (y más cercana a Tokio que Nikko). Se considera una de las antiguas capitales de Japón, y da nombre al periodo histórico entre 1185 y 1333. A visitar: el Buda gigante (Daibutsu) y los jardines llamados Hase-dera.

2 Aug 2009 3 comments so farJapan