What a wonderful light there was in Madrid this evening! What an unbelievable film set in our faces, what a cinematic and fragrant show for free! Who summoned those special effects of thin rain, light, the sun setting in my back, and Humanity? It was a luxurious homage to life among all the colours and the pollution.
How great it is to live in this city.
I had to do an errand after work, so I defied the punctual beast that is the traffic around seven (a beast twice a day stuffing and paralysing the roads, like a lover pushing ever closer). I rode all along the Eastern side of the city, entered it by the South, stopped for a moment, criss-crossed secondary roads to emerge again at the core, caressed it along its saggital line, left it behind on my way home.
It was almost a perfect sunshower. When I reached the city, my clothes were still damp from the rain that hit me on the highway. Someone had just switched on the Sun again, and long shadows came back and drew their distorted shapes sharply against the asphalt. The blinding glare in the eyes and the presence of shadows felt wrong somehow. Summer daylight and warm calm were returning when all of us had resigned to rain and night already. Like a cheap science fiction film in which time changed whimsically.
I was amazed at that clean, invisible air, as if it had been stolen from Sorolla. A Sorolla summer scene improved by the absence of the Mediterranean (such a bettering being conceivable by someone born in Madrid). Such was the warm light bathing every palace in the centre of Madrid today. Sights of glass, steel, plastic and marble slightly tinted in satisfying shades of orange, pearl and rose madder. Even my usually short-sighted eyes seemed to reach further than ever and register every nerve on every leaf, every fine pattern on the stucco of the highest façades in the avenue.
It felt just right, cruising down Paseo del Prado, counting all the leaves in the trees. The leaves were still up there, still unabashed and proud waiting for their day to die, escorting me all the way up to Cibeles. Riding smoothly past those centuries-old buildings (buildings which shaped a big deal of the lives of my ancestors and everybody in this country) in the special smell of late summer — that felt like the right thing to do a Thursday of September.
The end of summer is nigh (the swimming pool in my estate closed this week) but I can still afford to be late, change to a lower gear and open the neck of my jacket to feel this new air passing through me. Refresh my neck and my humid shirt and let me be renewed, too.
At the statue of the goddess, I genlty turn right and face Calle Alcalá. Puerta de Alcalá appears immediately before me, all fair and solemn, and salutes in contempt for my fragile and mutable nature. It stands there uphill, like a giant so confident that Time will flow through its arches so many times that it will give up in the end. I cannot believe everything is so bright being so late in the day, but then the Sun is in my back. The monument is framed by glorious white, grey and yellow cotton clouds looming joyfully over the shape of the city. At the right, a thick mass of tree tops overflows the iron fences of El Retiro and offers its gradients of green — still green! The lively and exuberant foliage contrasts so gracefully against the worn-out blocks of dead stone that support the fence around the park. The skinny guy on the bike feels humbled by the vision, unable to measure it, unsure about how to get his head around it.
Such are cities, and he loves them all. He certainly loves this one.
Photo: “Three buildings”, (CC) Jose Maria Cuellar
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